My Camino Route in 2023

My Camino Route in 2023
This year (2023), I will be walking my tenth Camino in thirteen years. This time I plan to walk the Camino Sanabres from Zamora to Lalin, the the Camino Invierno from Ponferrada to Santiago. The route is shown with the red line on the map.

Monday, September 30, 2019

Villaconejos de Trabaque 30 September 2019



A lot of level and downhill made today's walk of 22 km or 13.5 miles fairly easy. I was still carrying too much food, water, and wine weight since loading up in Cuenca as I knew these next stretches would not have many available options. No cafe con leche until a village about two thirds of the way through today's walk, but that was okay as it was a good place to take a rest. I did arrive around one pm at the albergue next to the ermita (small chapel) on the edge of Villaconejos. I was going to call the hospitalero, but there was a man my age behind the albergue working in his bodega (wine cave). He offered to take me into town to meet Pepe the hospitalero, so I took him up on that offer. Turned out that the little tienda he took me to, that Pepe had gone into Cuenca for the day. So they called his brother Paul who met me there and took me back to the albergue, opened it, and showed me around. He also let me know that I was invited to a dinner at 8:30 tonight next door at which he, Pepe, and several other people who be present. The guidebook says that this is one of the most welcoming albergues on this route and so far it seems to be. I will keep you posted!


Only steep ascent of the day



The albergue

Vilar de Domingo García 29 September 2019



About 29 km or 17 miles today. No vineyard, only forested area and harvested wheat fields or sunflowers that still seem too wet to harvest. Nothing else very interesting. Being a Sunday, everything is pretty dead in the towns. Only two bars, no restaurant, in this village. Only one was serving food, so I had a grilled chicken breast with fried eggs, French fries, and salad. Ho-hum.





Saturday, September 28, 2019

Cuenca 28 September 2019

Note: I have had very poor to no internet for almost a week. That is why I fell behind in posting to my blog. All caught up for now, but it may not last!

I did meet my first pilgrims on the route last night about nine pm. I took a walk around the village of Fuentes, when I saw an open window and a light with bunk beds at the church just 200 feet away from my pension. I went in and introduced myself to the French and Spanish men who were bicycle pilgrims and staying in the albergue there. Good thing I didn't check in earlier as there were only two beds there. I thought I might see them today, but they probably took the highway route and are far ahead by now.

I walked into Cuenca, the largest city between Valencia and Burgos about noon today. It was an easy walk of about 15 miles or 25 km through mostly farmland, wheat and sunflowers, with some pine forests. The wheat had been harvested much earlier, but I did see a few combines harvesting sunflowers. The torrential rains of a few weeks ago have put them way behind on the harvest schedule.

I called Luis, the hospitalero, when I arrived at the albergue, Casa del Peregrino, and he arrived shortly thereafter to check me in. Very friendly and very welcoming and he gave me some good information on the route and the albergues ahead. Cuenca is a very interesting city, built up on high and steep hills, steeper even than San Francisco,  with a multistory cathedral and homes hanging out over the cliffs. I did go sightseeing this afternoon and my photos here are the result. After a mid day meal (green beans with ham and cod cooked in tomato sauce), I am back at the albergue to shower, wash clothes, and rest and relax for tomorrow's walk. I will probably go out for a stroll tonight to take in the usual night time pouring out of families into the plazas to visit and relax in the cooler air.














The cathedral from side street below

Looking into the River gorge by the hanging houses

The hanging houses from the other side of the river

Fuentes 27 September 2019

A delightful day of walking on gravelled tracks through the mountains of mostly pine and oak forests of Castilla-La Mancha. I walked the entire day without a vehicle passing by me until about a kilometer before I arrived in Fuentes. 25 km today or about 15 miles. i arrived in the town and had to decide between the single bunk in the albergue at the church or one  of three choices for hostals or pensiones. I decided to go for the pension that has a bar and restaurante and am happy with the choice. The room is only 15 euro and is very nice and private. I had the menu diario after a shower and clothes washing. It was fun watching the grandpa and grandma owners who were taking care of their grandsons, both boys about the ages of Carson and Trevor. Active boys, but well behaved. Makes me miss my nietos. There is wifi down in the bar, so i hope to get all caught up with my postings. Due to a variety of coincidences, I have had no wifi for the past four days.

Steep climb out of Monteaguado



A bit bleaker up on top


I happened to be in the right place to catch the high speed AVE (Alta Velocidad España) train whooshing by at 100 mph, at least 30 times faster than I'm walking


Henry and Carson would have liked this dinosaur event

Los Cazadores (The Hunters) where I stayed


Card players in the bar, with a hot game going

Monteaguado de las Salinas 26 September 2019



Today's walk was about 29 km or 17 miles. A lot of uphill grades, at least that's what it seemed. My legs and feet are fine- no blisters, a few sore toes as usual, legs are fine. What bothers me is my right shoulder and the straps of my backpack. The bursitis from too many years of swinging a hammer is getting to me and is the only real problem. Just need to stop a bit more often and take the pack off during the day for five or ten  minutes at a time, plus a bit of ibuprofen
I walked into the little village of Monteaguado de las Salinas about 1 pm. It is a steep village with the church up on one hill and the castle up on another higher hill. Very picturesque. Very sleepy, too. The Casa Rural at the edge of the town is way laid back. I did get a room here after waiting about half an hour for them to prepare it . No problem, I just had a beer in the bar and waited till it was ready.The room is nice with a double bed and the bathroom down the hall, but it seems like I am the only one here tonight. Fifteen euro for the night. I walked up into the village after my shower and was buttonholed by the woman who owns the other casa rural, but  told her "No necesito."
After getting back to the casa rural, I went to the bar and told them I would like a meal as I preferred to eat during the afternoon rather than after 7 or 8 pm. Not sure they understood my poor Spanish, but about half way into the bottle of red wine and olives they brought, I ordered a ham and cheese sandwich and salad. Food was great and host very accommodating. I really enjoyed my meal and the everyday, laconic ambience. I am back in my room relaxing. I am sure I'll have a much better sleep tonight than in the Polideportivo the previous night. All is good (except no WiFi here, but that is a minor problem).

Monteaguado de las Salinas, church on one hill. Castle on highest hill

Wild west bar theme

Patron with John Deere cap

Unharvested washed out sunflowers

The Casa Rural/ bar




Friday, September 27, 2019

25 September 2019 Campillo de Altobuey



I am now on the Ruta de la Lana. The waymarking was not very good in Granja, so I had to ask two times for the correct path. Once out of the town, though, I found the yellow arrows with ease and it was all on farm roads, with nary a soul in site, except one vineyard where they were harvesting grapes. I ended up walking about 24 km or 15 miles.Guidebook said to check in at the mayor's office for a place in the Polideportivo (no other accomodations in the village). I did so and he called the person in charge, who was waiting by the time I walked over there.  Got all checked in, bought some groceries, and went to one of the two town restaurants on the main plaza. Food was terrible and not worth it. I did walk back to the grocery after it reopened at 6 pm, may need more food for tomorrow as there will be another small town with questionable services.






Graja de Iniesta 24 September 2019


Well, I woke up early at my campsite and could not get back to sleep, so I packed up and took off walking in the dark. The next two stops on the Camino Requena looked even less promising that what I’ve experienced so far, so I decided to leave that Camino and make my way independently over the next two days to the Ruta de la Lana, going along the  N-III highway in hopes of better chances of finding accommodations. In Spain, it seems like a lot people running restaurants or accommodations like to take a few weeks off in September or October to take their own vacations. That was the case in the first town I walked into this morning, Villagordo, where the only hotel was closed. I did not mind so much, since it was only 9 am. I walked on to the town of Minglanilla. Frustration as the only accommodation there is closed every Tuesday so its workers can rest. I walked to the mayor’s office, where the three women running it went all out of their way to find something. The albergue that was closed for repairs did not want to open just for me.  Possibility of a room  above the farmacia did not turn out either. Finally they found that the next town down the highway, had an restaurant/hostal with rooms. Seven km away and I  had already walked 33 km or about 22 miles. So they took pity on me and had a city worker drive me there. It was really great not to have to camp out again, to be able to have a good midday meal, to shower, and to wash all my clothes. The only problem is the internet does not seem to be able to connect to my devices, so it may cause a delays in posting. I am looking  to have a good night’s sleep tonight!

The reservoir

Marching from Valencia Province into Castilla La Mancha

A nice ensalada mixta

Dorada Plancha

Running to keep up with the patrons

Fuenterobles 23 September 2019




My goal today was a simple 19 km (11 mile walk) to Cuadete de las Fuentes and get a room at one of the restaurant/hostals in the city.Turns out that restaurant no longer rents rooms. I checked out the two casa rural and neither of them were opened. After checking at the mayor’s office, they could not help. I went to the other restaurant and had a meal, then considered my options. I went back to the abandoned housing project at the edge of town, but decided that was too creepy. Finally, I decided at 5 pm to leave for the next town Fuenterobles another 9 km away, where there was a casa rural that turned out to be nonexistent. With no other options, I went just outside of town and found a mature olive orchard where I made my campsite for the night.. To be continued.

Abandoned housing project

Street art with an old mill wheel



Sunday, September 22, 2019

Requena 22 September 2019


After three grueling and partly unplanned days of walking, I declared today to be a rest day. So on this rest day, I set out with just my light day pack and went backwards on the Camino path in the direction of El Rebollar. I went 5 miles, not quite all the way back, before returning to Requena on the same path. So the ten miles that I walked in three hours more than made up for the needed lift by car yesterday. As you can see from the photos, the scenery was beautiful with well tended vineyards and wilder land along a stream canyon. The recent rains have greened up the foliage nicely. Tomorrow should also be easy, with about 15 miles of slightly upsloping paths.
After three grueling and partly unplanned days of walking, I declared today to be a rest day. So on this rest day, I set out with just my light day pack and went backwards on the Camino path in the direction of El Rebollar. I went 5 miles, not quite all the way back, before returning to Requena on the same path. So the ten miles that I walked in three hours more than made up for the needed lift by car yesterday. As you can see from the photos, the scenery was beautiful with well tended vineyards and wilder land along a stream canyon. The recent rains have greened up the foliage nicely. Tomorrow should also be easy, with about 15 miles of slightly upsloping paths.