My Camino Route in 2023

My Camino Route in 2023
This year (2023), I will be walking my tenth Camino in thirteen years. This time I plan to walk the Camino Sanabres from Zamora to Lalin, the the Camino Invierno from Ponferrada to Santiago. The route is shown with the red line on the map.

Monday, October 9, 2023

Madrid 9 October 2023

 Well, I was not going to do another post from Spain, but here it is. I arrived midday at the Chamartin train station after my morning ride from Santiago. I am in the process of walking to my accommodation for tonight which is not open yet. I took my time and stopped to see the new Real Madrid  stadium being built and for a menu del dia on the way. As you can see from the restaurant photo, people in Spain are very concerned about the Israel-Hamas conflict. My lentejas (lentil stew) was very good, but I was hoping the albondigas (meat balls) would be served without fries. Tomorrow I will trek to the Metro station for the subway ride to the airport, then home. I can not thank Kathy Boehm enough for taking care of everything at home while I took off

View inside the bar/restaurant - Spanish TV with coverage of Israeli Hamas conflict
Lentil stew
The new Real Madrid stadium under construction 
I was hoping these buildings didn't fall down as I passed by
Marker for the Camino Madrid, which I walked in 2016


for a month to pursue a trip and see again a country in a way that few will ever see it.

Sunday, October 8, 2023

Santiago 8 October 2023

 Six miles to the Cathedral in Santiago today and my Camino is over. It was 350 miles total in a bit under four weeks. It was surprisingly farm and forest land to within  two miles of the end. I visited the cathedral and took in an exhibition of Lorca, my favorite Spanish poet. Kathy said to get a good meal, so I went to Galeon de la Raina, where I've eaten before. Off to Madrid tomorrow and home on Tuesday. Adiós, hope you've enjoyed the trip!





Plaza San Roque 

Ensalada mixta and Pimientos de Padrón 
Zorza: marinated pork tenderloin 


Saturday, October 7, 2023

A Susana 7 October 2023

 Fourteen miles today to A Susana, with just six miles tomorrow to complete my Camino in Santiago. It's hot for this part of the country 30 C or about 90 F. At least it's not raining as often is the case.


Tractor was running and two men were using it to power a wood splitter 
The large Rio Ulla below 

The fresh bread man (or woman) with a loud horn on his van and from a local bakery alerts residents on his route and they come running for their daily bread

Friday, October 6, 2023

Bandeira 6 October 2023

 Thirteen mile uneventful walk to Bandeira today. Only about twenty miles to Santiago which I will stretch to two days because I have the time. Weather is good with cool mornings, warm afternoons, and no rain.

Interesting Camino path through Lalin's industrial district 

Cute four wheel drive tractor 

Unique hay mowing machine 

Thursday, October 5, 2023

Lalin 5 October 2023

 Fifteen miles today to and around Lalín. No steep grades but undulating terrain (lots of up and down) through mostly farmland, some forest and a few small villages. As I get closer to Santiago, there are a lot of daypack pilgrims ( ones who walk with a light daypack and send their big suitcases ahead to the next stop by taxi). In fact, I had a problem finding a place to stay, because the two centrally located pensions and albergue were already reserved and full for the night. I went into booking.com to find a nice hotel about a mile out of town on the highway. Good thing is that it parallels tomorrow's Camino route, so that I'll have a shorter walk tomorrow.

Creek crossing 
American style windmill 
Huge granite quarry 

Not farm equipment even though on the edge of a field of corn cut for silage. The machine is a John Deere lumber harvester used to stage the cut logs for transport to the mill.

Wednesday, October 4, 2023

Rodeiro 4 October 2023

 Chantada to Rodeiro today, 16 miles walk with the first 8 miles a steady uphill with a 1900 foot elevation gain, then the last half with the same drop to Rodeiro. The midpoint was a large wind generator (eólicos) farm. Spain generates a lot of electricity from wind, solar, and hydro. Most all of its vast passenger train system is powered by electricity. Unlike us, they don't seem to have a problem completing their high speed AVE ( Alta Velocidad España) rail projects, people use them because they are comprehensive, fast, and efficient.

Starting the walk in cool, foggy (i.e., ideal) conditions 

Accidental photo showing good walking surface, not as hard as asphalt or concrete and rocks not too big, either. With an average of 25,000 steps a day, your feet know.
Looks like the fog is hanging on down below 

The cows came by first. Need to watch my step!
Tired of the segundo (beef ribs, breaded fish, or meatballs), I had two primers today, Fabadas and ensalada mixta.

Nice 12 euro private albergue 

Tuesday, October 3, 2023

Chantada 3 October 2023

Old cattle watering trough 
Perfectly tended Galician garden with the typical kale
Going down

And back up the other side 
Typical small village church with cemetery 
Once in a while you get a real winner. My primer plato was fabas ( large white beans grown in northern Spain) with clams. The broth was perfect with just the right amounts of olive oil and paprika. I complimented the chef and asked for her recipe, but she just said thank you and laughed.
Filete de ternera with a nice side salad 
Tarta de queso again 
Chantada- typical street view of a medium sized Spanish city. On the way back to the 22 euro pension I'm spending the night in. As I finish this post, I'm listening to Radio Nacional España's Clasica channel on the room's tv, resting up for and planning tomorrow's walk.
 


Eleven miles to Chantada today. The weather turned much cooler and overcast today. As I get farther west into Galicia, everything is greener and damper. The weather in Galicia is more like that in Seattle, while much of the rest of Spain is more like California. There was a steep descent into a river valley followed by a very steep ascent up to Chantada. The view's of the terraced vineyards were beautiful, even though I was sweating and huffing and puffing to get back up the hill.

Monday, October 2, 2023

Monforte de Lemos 2 October 2023

 About twelve miles today to Monforte de Lemos. Two steep grades, but less up than yesterday, all very enjoyable.




Mural art along the way
Tuna empanada 
Salmon with real potatoes