My Camino Photos are now on my Blog!

I have finished loading the photos to my blog postings (well, almost - I still have to get the photos from the disposable camera developed- these will be photos of the walk from Santiago to Finisterra). Anyway, take a look and once again, I'm sorry that I could not post photos as I walked.

John

Back in the USA

Kathy and I arrived back home about 11:30pm California time after a 9 hour flight to Chicago and a 4 1/2 hour flight to San Francisco. Then 3 more hours by the time we got luggage, and the car, and a long detour north since the Bay Bridge was closed for repairs. It felt good to sleep in our own bed again.

Remember, I will post photos in a few days. Thanks, John

Segovia 2

Looking to the main entrance of the Alcazar from the old town part of Segovia.


One view from the Alcazar.




The Roman aqueduct in Segovia. 20,000 large carved blocks and not a bit of mortar to hold it together.






Various views of the Alcazar from the path at the bottom of the hill that it is on.


Being the alert peregrino that I am, I picked up the waymarks for the camino from Madrid to Santiago, which passes through Segovia.

First, to finish last night, we did go to the concert, which was in a 12th century church, San Nicolas. The church seems to be converted to a concert hall. It had very good acoustics and an intimate setting. The young musicians were all from Segovia's conservatory of music, a flutist, guitarist, violist, and percussionist. Not bad for a free concert.

Today, we started our visit at the Alcazar. It started as a Moorish fortress, later used by the kings and queens of Spain as a retreat from Madrid. Quite different design and decoration from the Gothic and Renaissance churches. Lots of geometric designs and no statues or paintings, except for those added by the later Christian rulers. Over the top design with turrets, towers, moats, drawbridges, and all on a steep hill overlooking the entire countryside. This is the castle on which Walt Disney based his Sleeping Beauty castle in Disneyland.

Of course we had to see one last cathedral before we left. Segovia's cathedral was started in 1526 as a rebuild of the original cathedral which was destroyed. Not completed until 1768, it was the last Gothic style cathedral built in Spain.

After some yummy tortilla y pimiento bocadillos and wine in the Plaza Mayor, we saw some art exhibits, then back to our hostal for a little rest. One of the local specialties here is roast suckling pig (cochinilla).. The piece is about the size of a small half chicken and seems to about half of the little piglet. Anyway, I tried it for dinner. The meat was tender and tasty, but pretty fatty and salty. It was okay, just not a "must have again item". Sunday morning, we drive to Madrid and the long flight back home. I am not looking forward to the flight, but after seven weeks over here, it will be good to get back home again.

I promise to post a bunch of photos, but give me a few days to get caught up!

Segovia

In the Sierra Ceberolla mountains, south of La Rioja.


Almost to Segovia, which is just northwest of Madrid. The much drier landscape here is quite a contrast to what we were used to in northern Spain.

We headed south out of the La Rioja and over the Rio Ebro. We meandered up the valley of the Rio Iregua to the Sierra Ceberolla mountains and it's national park. The trees were vividly changing color, mostly yellows and browns. South of this range is the province of Soria. This is wheat and rangeland country and very dry compared to farther north. Grocery stop in the capitol town, also called Soria.

Our lunch stop was to the west in El Burgo de Osma, a surprisingly small town for a cathedral. Of course, we stopped for a look at it, then had lunch at a local café. From there, it was southwest through more meseta like farmland, mostly wheat and sunflowers. If we would have gone straight west, we would have been in the Ribiera del Duero wine region, but decided to head on towards Segovia instead. 

By 4 pm we arrived in Segovia. We went to the tourist information to get a city map and find about available accomodations. We found a close by room in a hostal and will stay here for the next two nights. Why Segovia? 1. We have never been here yet. 2. It has much to see, Roman aqueducts, Moorish castles, the ever present cathedral, and more. 3. It is only about 90 minutes from the airport, so will be convenient when we leave Spain on Sunday. Added bonus- We also found out there is a contemporary classical music concert in one of the old churches on both nights that we will also attend. More tomorrow.

La Guardia (La Rioja wine region)

Vineyards along the Rio Ebro.


Us.


Finally, an old steam engine.


La Rioja fall colors


This was the view from our hotel window.

From guest blogger Kathy:

We spent today meandering through the La Rioja, Spain's most well known premium wine region. Autumn in España is spectacular. The browns, reds, yellows, and oranges of the countless vineyards of the Sierra de Cantabria mountains and the Rio Ebro at the valley floor is fabulous. Along with quite a few medieval churches, castles, ermitas, and ancient villages sprinkled throughout, the effect is wonderful. The wineries and bodegas (cellars) are very modern and efficient. Napa and Sonoma Valleys, take notice!

We visited one winery with a modern museum that showcased both the production, history, and culture of winemaking. Both antique and modern equipment was displayed, including a steam engine and an IHC Titan tractor. We are spending the night in La Guardia, an ancient town on a hill with a 360 degree view of the valley. Before dinner, we will wander through the narrow streets of the old town, perhaps stopping at one if the many vinotecas (wine shops) before dinner.

More tomorrow from Segovia.

Nájera 2

I liked the gargoyles on the outside of the Palencia cathedral.


The bishop's door, Palencia cathedral.


The carving on the pulpit in the Palencia cathedral.


More jamons for Kent

Today must have been cathedral day for us. We got an early (8 am) start on the 40 minute drive south (and off the camino track) to the medium size farming town of Palencia. The cathedral here was built over the original 7th century Visigothic church, of which some parts remain. Except for the main door, it is somewhat plain looking outside, but is one of the largest of the Castillian cathedrals at 130 meters long. The inside is a different story. From carved wood altarpiece panels, carved stone choir screen, and the carved oak pulpit, plus more, this is a grand cathedral for a smaller and relatively unknown town.

Next was an hour or so drive to Burgos and it's well known cathedral. Since I already covered this cathedral in earlier posts, there is no need now for further elaboration. Kathy and I went through it at midday, then ate lunch at a restaurant in the cathedral plaza.

Next another hour or so east to Santo Domingo de la Calzada. On this part of the drive, the pilgrim camino parralled the road that we took. We ended up in Santo Domingo about 4 but the cathedral did not open till 5 pm. We waited around, then viewed the cathedral, then drove on to another camino town that I previously stayed at, Nájera. We will spend the night at a hostal here, then on to the La Rioja wine region for tomorrow.

From guest blogger Kathy: What is the fascination with cathedrals? They are certainly not all the same. Each has it's own character, design, and strong points. John and I both read Pillars of the Earth and World without End since our last Spain visit fours years ago. It is interesting to see how these vast structures were built given the limited technologies of 600 to 1000 years ago.

Carrión 2

Our picnic lunch in Hospital de Orbigo.


The Leon cathedral.


Another stained glass window in the Leon cathedral. It is hard to do them justice with a photo.


Kathy outside the Gnomes gift shop in Leon.

We were able to sleep in this morning and have a leisurely desayuno before returning to the cathedral and Gaudi designed  bishop's palace in Astorga. We viewed the cathedral which has had much restoration work done. It is simple and a bit austere in the furnishings. But very imposing in it's construction. Kathy was impressed with the 100 year old, but very Gothic design of the bishop's palace. The stained glass and arches were especially impressive. From there we drove on to Hospital de Orbigo and it's several hundred meter long, multiple-arched bridge originally built in the 1300's. Kathy and I had our picnic lunch here today. Then it was on to the short drive to León. We saw the cathedral and it's magnificent stained glass. Kathy is off to find some souvenir magnets and stuff.

More later--Well, we drove on to Carrión, one of my stops a few weeks ago on my camino. It is about halfway between León and Burgos. Tomorrow a quick trip south to Palencia's cathedral, then on to Burgos and, hopefully, Santo Domingo de la Calzada.