My Camino Route in 2023

My Camino Route in 2023
This year (2023), I will be walking my tenth Camino in thirteen years. This time I plan to walk the Camino Sanabres from Zamora to Lalin, the the Camino Invierno from Ponferrada to Santiago. The route is shown with the red line on the map.

Tuesday, September 27, 2011

Pedrouzo September 27

First, I need to update you on last night. A group of fifteen of us who completed the Camino Primitivo got together yesterday afternoon in a bar to celebrate with gin and tonics. All were Spanish, except for Greg, I, Kristina, the Hungarian woman, and Ernst, the German man. We didn't get a lot of the conversation, but one of the Spanish women works as a multi-lingual interpreter, so that helped. All were much younger than Greg and I and I think they were surprised that we were able to complete the camino as well as we did, finishing more rapidly than them on many days. They called Greg and I the smiling men, they said we always had smiles on our faces. I told them in my poor Spanish that they spoke so rapidly that when we could not understand, we just smiled. Anyway, afterwards, we went back to the pulperia and had several plates of pulpo (octopus), shrimp in garlic, beef ribs with potatoes, and finally, boiled pigs ears with potatoes. We tried the pigs ears, but have to admit that Greg and I did not like them. They were kind of greasy and slippery without much taste. Anyway a good afternoon and evening to cap off the Camino Primitivo. We saw some of them on the walk today, but the group will only be together now in memories.

Walking today was like being in a cattle drive, with all the Camino Francés pilgrims, must be hundreds of them. And so many of them poorly prepared for long distance walking with swollen legs, bandaged feet, walking in flip flops, just limping slowly along. It was quite a contrast to the disciplined and experienced walkers we have encountered on the Norte and Primitivo.

Our walk today was 33 km or 20 miles, but the path was easy without any serious elevation changes. I think we will walk into Santiago tomorrow as it is only 18 km, then on the next day to Muxia and Finisterra. We are staying in a private albergue here tonight, the same one I stayed in two years ago, it has a bit more room than the public ones plus wifi.

Another contrast with the Camino Francés, is the number of older walkers such as us. Also many English and German speakers, plus many Asians. The Caminos Norte and Primitivo had primarily younger and Spanish speaking pilgrims.

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